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When compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. But, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest place achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary honour.